Brussels sprouts

Origin & history

Brussels sprouts are the youngest of the cabbages: they were selected in the area around Brussels and are documented there from the 18th century — hence the English name and the botanical gemmifera, “bud-bearing”. They reached Germany in the 19th century. The sprouts are axillary buds: one sits in every leaf axil along the stem, which is why a tall, well-leafed plant automatically yields more.

Varieties

Early varieties are ready from October, late ones stand into January and are markedly hardier — so for the classic harvest after the first frost, definitely pick a late variety. F1 hybrids set very uniform, firm sprouts along the whole stem; open-pollinated varieties such as “Groninger” or “Hilds Ideal” ripen from the bottom upwards and can be picked over many weeks. Red-leaved varieties look good but yield less.

Care

Brussels sprouts want firm ground — on freshly deep-dug, loose soil the tall plants topple over and the sprouts stay loose and open. Plant deep, earth up later, and add a stake in windy spots. Stop nitrogen-heavy feeding from August, otherwise the sprouts turn soft and cope badly with frost; keep snapping off the yellowing lower leaves. If you want all the sprouts at once, cut out the growing tip at the end of September — for picking right through the winter it is better left on.

What can go wrong

Loose, open sprouts instead of firm buttons are almost always the result of soil that is too loose, too much nitrogen, or an early variety planted too early. Mealy cabbage aphid sits as a grey coating in the shoot tips and between the sprouts — break out affected tips, wash the rest off with a hard jet of water, and netting from planting day largely keeps it away in the first place. As with all brassicas: at least four years before the same bed is used again, and clear the old stumps in spring rather than leaving them standing.

Harvest, storage & kitchen

Twist the sprouts off the stem only shortly before cooking — they keep better on the stalk than in the fridge; in a long hard frost you can lift the whole plant and heel it in somewhere cool but frost-free. The tuft of leaves at the top is edible and cooked like kale. In the kitchen, do not boil them to death: halved and roasted in the oven they taste far milder than boiled soft.

Frequently asked questions

When can Brussels sprouts be harvested?

From the start of October to the end of January, depending on variety. Sprouts are ready when they are tight and about three to four centimetres across; the lowest on the stem come first while new ones are still forming above.

Do Brussels sprouts really need frost?

Not strictly — picking can begin in early October. The plant is hardy, late varieties take even double-digit frost, and after the first frosty nights the sprouts taste milder, which is why many gardeners save the main pick for December.

What is the latest date for planting out Brussels sprouts?

20 June. The plant needs the whole season to set sprouts by October; anything planted later ends the autumn as leaf with no crop. Sow from mid-March and plant out from mid-May, 50 cm apart in the row.

Can Brussels sprouts be frozen?

Yes. Trim them, blanch for two to three minutes, cool in iced water, drain and freeze in portions; they keep for around eight months. Cook them straight from frozen in the pan or the oven — thawed first they go mushy.

Do Brussels sprouts really need frost to taste good?

No. Picking can start in early October; frost is not a condition, it just makes the sprouts milder. The plant is hardy and late varieties stand in the bed to the end of January, which is why many gardeners shift the main pick to December and January.