Thyme

Origin & history

Common thyme is a dwarf shrub of the western Mediterranean, growing there on limestone scree in garrigue and maquis — the small, inrolled leaves are an answer to drought, not to cold. It came north of the Alps through monastery gardens in the Middle Ages. It has relatives here: wild thyme (Thymus pulegioides) grows on poor dry grassland all over Germany.

Varieties

For the kitchen, Thymus vulgaris is the species you want; the hardiest selection is “Deutscher Winter”, which stays compact and tastes strong. Lemon thyme (Thymus × citriodorus) smells citrusy but is markedly more frost-sensitive, and the flat creeping thymes are really paving-crack and rock-garden plants with weaker flavour. Seed-raised plants differ noticeably in flavour — if you have a good one, propagate it from cuttings or layers rather than sowing again.

Care

Thyme gets no feeding and, once established, hardly any water; in a bed the rain is enough, in a pot you water only when the compost is genuinely dry. Harvesting is the maintenance: cutting shoot tips regularly keeps it dense — but only into leafy wood, since bare old wood does not reshoot. Stop cutting hard from the end of August so the shoots harden before frost. Bark mulch or compost right against the base causes rot; gravel or coarse sand is better there.

What can go wrong

Almost everything that goes wrong starts underground: in heavy soil that stays wet over winter the roots rot, the plant goes grey from the middle and dies back shoot by shoot — a slightly raised planting position, sand or grit in the planting hole and an open, sunny spot are the answer. Winter losses are less often down to hard frost than to winter desiccation: the evergreen foliage transpires on sunny frosty days while the frozen roots cannot resupply it, and a layer of brushwood over the plant prevents that. After about five years a plant is woody and bare in the middle, so start a layer in good time as its successor.

Harvest, storage & kitchen

Thyme is one of the few herbs that can cook for a long time — it goes in early with braises, soups and fried potatoes rather than being scattered over at the end. Strip the leaves by pulling the sprig through your fingers against the direction of growth; woody stems go in whole with a bouquet garni and are fished out before serving. It loses little when dried airy, dark and whole — crumble the leaves only as you cook.

Frequently asked questions

Does thyme need a lot of water?

No, it gets by on very little. In a pot, water only when the compost is dry two or three centimetres down, then water thoroughly and empty the saucer. In the ground, rain is usually enough after the first year, even through several dry weeks.

Is thyme winter hardy?

Yes, in open ground it comes through the winter reliably and keeps its leaves. A pot is the weak point, since the small rootball freezes solid. Stand it sheltered by the house wall on a board rather than cold stone, and water sparingly on frost-free days.

Can I harvest thyme while it is flowering?

Yes, and then above all: just before and at the start of the June and July flowering the flavour is densest, which is the moment to cut for drying. The small pink flowers are edible. Leave part of the cushion standing, as bees and bumblebees make good use of it.

Does thyme do well in a pot?

Very well, and three to five litres will do. What matters is a drainage hole, a lean sandy mix and the sunniest place you have. In rich potting compost it grows soft and tastes of little; the leaner the spot, the more flavour it develops.